With a blade that’s secured by tension, the coping saw is made for making curved cuts in wood; creating coped joints. Coped joints require fine tuned craftsmanship skills, and the saw is both small and lightweight for precision. Coping saws have about 15 to 17 teeth per inch.
Crosscut saws are meant to be used against the wood grain and are not recommended for fine precision work. With large teeth and ultra-durable handles.
Similar to its crosscut cousin, the ripcut is a durable hard worker that’s designed to be used with the wood grain. With super sharp teeth that remove wood chips as you saw.
Best for cutting through thin sheets of metal or plastic tubing; most often seen with a c-shaped handle secured under tension and a thin, fine-toothed blade with between 18 and 32 teeth per inch.
Also known as a dovetail saw because it’s designed to make dovetail joints. With fine teeth and a narrow blade, the back saw makes precision cuts with ease. Usually includes an additional piece of metal on the top of the blade for more control.
The keyhole saw is defined by its pointed edge, meant to puncture drywall before sawing into it. Also perfect for cutting out rough patterns, making small (key) holes, and any awkward cutting.
With wide-set jagged teeth and a bow-shaped handle. Like the crosscut saw, bow saws are used for pruning branches and cutting logs.
Translated from French, “fret” means “lattice,” so, in this case, lattice work. Fret saws are meant to complete precise cuts where accuracy is the aim. Lightweight, small, with about 32 teeth per inch.